Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #4: Under it All

Sorry for the long hiatus!  The stress and craziness of school beginning got in the way of any exceptional projects, so I just didn't have any time to post.  However, I did get one small thing finished.  This petticoat is actually a remake of my previous bodiced petticoat--something that I made with no documentation and very poorly (feel free to smack my wrist!)  I decided to tear everything apart and make it up completely differently.  Here is my new Regency petticoat!

The Challenge: #4 Under it All

Fabric: Cotton muslin

Year: 1810-1820

Notions: Polyester Gutermann thread and two china buttons

How historically accurate is it?: I would say 80%.  The cut is period correct, but I sewed all of the long seams by machine.

Hours to complete: about 5

First worn: Just for pictures

Total cost: $0, since everything came from the stash!

New Year's Re-sew-lutions

Merry Christmas and a happy New Year to all!  I've been happy to spend these past weeks with friends and family, and I've been glad to take a break from the hustle and bustle of school.  I had planned on all sorts of new projects to undertake but unfortunately my friend Procrastination reared his ugly head.  Alas, Sam and I won't be going to the Locust Grove ball representative of 1812... 1860 or 1950 will have to do.  To try and hurry through our clothes would just be a shame, since we took so much time and care into picking the perfect materials.  I'd rather make a product I'm proud of and miss an event than make something I'm ashamed of and go to one.

Anyway, this new development means that there are a bunch of exciting projects lined up for the new year!  I hope to use 2014 as a year to explore new eras, since I've been itching to try new things out.  So, here are my New Year's Re-sew-lutions!  Onward and upward!

1770's

The National Gallery

I'd really like to delve into the 18th century this year, as I've wanted to for many years--and as this is an era with a lot of reenactments, I'll be making the beau a suit as well.  I'm planning on beginning my stays immediately after the Jane Austen Festival in July (or even sooner, if I'm able).  Hopefully having those will be the kick-start I need for entering this era!

Regency

Le Bon Genre, 1812

The Fashions of the War of 1812 will be the focus of this year, since both Sam and I find it as our particular favorite and we both need new trimmings.  Having recently finished my stays, I'll be altering my bodiced petticoat and making a new shift, along with making several new gowns and spencers.  Sam needs all the accoutrements of a Regency dandy--shirt, breeches, tailcoat, waistcoat, and cravat.  This year's Jane Austen Festival will be the most fabulous one yet!

1840's

Pariser Moden

Sam and I have been entertaining the possibility of going 1840's in the near future.  I think the styles would suit Sam very well and a few of our good friends represent the 1840's very well.  Who knows?  the 1840's could be visiting us in 2014!

1860's

Abiti Antichi

The Chickamauga mayhem resulted in Sam and I taking quite the break from Civil War, a break that still hasn't ended.  I hope sometime this year I'll jump back on the horse and make a few 1860's things--in particular, the bonnet that I started in 2012.  There are a few events we're looking at for 2014, but we're not committing to anything since we're going to take this year to ease into new things.

1940's

LIFE Magazine

Last year, Sam and I met at a USO dance held by a local veteran's association.  This year, for our anniversary and for the dance, I'm hoping to make something delightfully 1940's in flavor.  This dress is super top-secret, so I can't spill any more beans about it!  I'll also be altering a few things to fit Sam better, and possibly making him a new coat (if he asks nicely).  I'm hoping to use 2014 in order to get into more of the "vintage" eras as well--the 1920's through the 1950's.

Do you have any New Year's re-sew-lutions you'd like to share?  Please share them in the comments, or link to your blog so I can follow your progress!  I love to make new friends, especially ones interested in the same topics as I am.  Good luck to everyone in the New Year, and God bless!

Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #24: Re-do

Hello everyone!  Finally, finally, finally I've made myself a new pair of Regency stays.  I don't know if y'all remember the last ones (monstrosities that completely squashed me and were made with incorrect methods and metal grommets...) but I ripped those apart and, though I re-sewed the gussets in, that's as far as I got.  I bought the pattern and supplies for these stays about a year ago, originally planning to make them for the Pittsburgh Jane Austen Festival, which I didn't end up going to, and then for the Louisville Jane Austen Festival, but they sat untouched as I had other projects to work on.  I finally started work on them in September and now they're finished!  Hopefully they'll last me for a long time, because I really did not enjoy working on them.  Right now they're wearable, however I will be adding an extra eyelet in the straps and possibly a small pad so that the "girls" don't shift during flight ;) This is my late entry for the 24th HSF challenge!

The Challenge: #24: Re-do

The Challenge(s) you are re-doing: 

#1: Bicentennial: These were made with the years 1810-1820 in mind, so they're good to go for 1813!

#2: UFO: While these weren't *started* earlier, they did sit around forever, and I did mean to make them for a long time!

#3: Under it all: The most necessary undergarment--stays!

#13: Lace and Lacing: One of my favorite parts of this garment was doing spiral lacing for the first time.  I love the look, however I've been spoiled by having cross-lacing 1860's stays!

#15: White: These stays are the classic Regency white.

#19: Wood, metal, bone: These use a wooden busk in the front and boning (although it is plastic!)

#23: Gratitude: I am so thankful to all of my friends for their help in making these (and also cheerleading when I needed it!)  Namely Maggie, Sabine, and Betsy.

Fabric: Handkerchief linen and linen canvas from fabrics-store.com.  I highly recommend both of these fabrics (especially the handkerchief linen, I'm addicted to it!) because they are very high-quality and wonderful to work with.

Pattern: The Mantua Maker Regency stays pattern (which you can find here!)

Year: 1810-1820

Notions: Plastic zip ties for boning, wooden busk, machine sewing thread, hand sewing thread, and buttonhole twist, some thin poly ribbon for a front drawstring, some thicker poly ribbon for the lacing and the strap ties, and one china button.

How historically accurate is it? The fabrics and the pattern are correct, as is the wooden busk.  I did use plastic bones and polyester ribbon and thread.  I would say these are 85% correct.

Hours to complete: I lost count a long time ago, as I worked on them on and off.  If I had to guess I'd say 25 hours.

First worn: I haven't worn them yet, but the first event I do wear them to will likely be the Locust Grove Ball.

Total cost: About $60, all things considered.

The Ubiquitous Blue Coat of the Regency Era

Hello everyone!  In preparation for making the beau's regency items, I've done a lot of research regarding men's Regency fashions (with a lot of help from my friends Brian, Maggie, and many others).  In case you couldn't tell from the blue cravat and blue vest I made Sam for the 1860's, Sam barely wears anything but blue.  I had originally planned on making him a black tailcoat from some suiting-weight wool that I had in the stash, but through researching I found out that isn't quite the weight we're going for in the Regency.  I kept finding more and more blue tailcoats in the era, and I came to the conclusion that 1. hopefully this tailcoat would last a very long time and I wouldn't have to make a new one for a while and 2. if they had blue tailcoats, then why the hell not?  I searched and searched for the correct weight of blue wool, but to no avail.  I came pretty close on some of the places I looked at, but either they didn't have the right weight of fabric or they didn't have the right color.  I even went to Joann's, of all places, but that fabric struck out on both accounts.  The night before the Market Fair at Locust Grove, I was talking to Maggie and mentioned my search, and she ended up having the perfect wool for me!  I can't thank her enough, especially because there will be enough left to make a pretty little something for me!  Anyway, enough talk, here are some of the many fashion plates and extant images that show this classic look.

c. 1817

Thomas Cooke, English actor (1786-1864) by James Warren Childe (1780-1802)

Incroyable et Merveilleuse

Costume Parisien 1804

Costume Parisien 1814

Le Beau Monde, 1807

Costume Parisien, 1804

And finally, the tailcoat and waistcoat fabrics I'll be using to achieve this look.  Wish me luck!

Edited to add: thanks to Betsy Bashore for helping me out on terminology.  Anywhere that I referred to a "tailcoat" with the words "frock coat" has been fixed!

The Lydia Fast Bonnet Workshop

Whew!  What a whirlwind!  I had such a great time at the workshop and learned more than I could have expected to learn about millinery.  It's not so scary now!  I'm very pleased with how my bonnet turned out and surprised that I finished it this quickly.  Here's how it all went down...

First, I drove three hours to Ft. Meigs, where the workshop is held each year.  I had a bit of time to kill so I hung around the historical district.  Then we set up and went to dinner and to pick up some supplies, back to the classroom just in time to start work.  I chose to do the Pip, a style with a short crown and a curled brim.

This was one of the more difficult options, but I decided that I'd get my money's worth and do it anyway.  I chose a very pretty pink silk for the brim lining and a yellow for the crown.  This was my inspiration piece:

Ackermann's Repository 1814

Anyway, we received pre-cut pieces of buckram and mulling and a few other supplies.  We started by assembling the crown of our bonnets.

I half-attached my brim before we decided that it was time to turn it in for the night.  My friend Julie graciously let me stay at her house, so we went back there and stayed up a bit longer talking :)

Once we got back to the classroom the next morning, we started back to work.  I finished attaching my brim.  Since I chose the Pip, I had to steam-form my brim in order to give it that cute curled look. 

Here it is before steaming...

And after!

Once I finished this, it was time to take a little break and head to a great store called the Ribbonry in Perrysburg, Ohio.  It was intense!  Some of the ribbons were more per yard than a lot of my dress lengths of fabric!

As soon as we walked in I found the perfect plaid ribbon for Julie and helped my new friend Alyssa find a ribbon for her poke.  I promised myself I wouldn't buy anything but I laid eyes on the most perfect ribbon for my bonnet, and knew I had to get it.  Alyssa was so thankful for my help in picking her ribbon that she bought the ribbon for me!  It was incredibly generous of her and I am still floored.  So, you all should go to her website and buy her books, as she is a Regency author!

It looked perfect with my colors!

Once we were finished with the Ribbonry, we returned to the classroom and put our noses back to the grindstone.  Finally it was time to touch fashion fabric!  I first attached the crown tip, followed shortly by the brim fabric.

I then attached the brim lining--in my pretty pink silk!

I only got halfway through attaching the lining before my back started hurting and we decided to call it a night.  We went back to the house and had some laughs, and I slept like a rock that night.

Bright and early Sunday morning, we started again.  I finished attaching one edge of the brim lining and then attached the inside edge.

Next up was covering the crown.  I could taste the finish line! Thankfully, I was able to attach the crown before the end of the workshop.  Yay!

After I finished attaching the crown piece, I packed up and headed for home.  Today, I was able to put in the lining and attach the ribbon, and I'm very happy with how it turned out!  I might add a feather or some flowers, but here it is in its present state.

I struggled with the bow, but I really like how it turned out.  I'm planning on wearing this to the Jane Austen Festival next year, but hopefully some event will arise that I can wear it to, as well!  The workshop, all in all, was very fun and informative, and I will definitely be going again.  And now I can honestly say that millinery doesn't scare me anymore!

Delicious Bonnets of the Early 19th Century

As an early Christmas present, next weekend I'll be going to Lydia Fast's Bonnet Workshop!  In preparation I've been collecting digital images of the gorgeous bonnets of the Regency era.  Here are only a few of the images I found!  If you would like to get an idea of what I'll be doing at the workshop, please read my friend Julia's recap of the 2012 workshop.  Enough talking, now pretties!

The one in the top right is one of my favorites.

Ackermann's Repository 1809--I love the one in the bottom right!

I'm planning on making the one in the bottom right corner, because I love the gorgeous simplicity!

All of these bonnets are gorgeous, but especially the one in the bottom left.

Ackermann's Repository 1815--I am completely envious of this woman's entire outfit, but especially her bonnet!

And finally, this is the bonnet I'll be reproducing in the workshop!  It will have a light pink brim lining and a yellow crown, with dark pink flowers and feathers.  This is from Ackermann's Repository 1814.

Fashions from Peterson's Magazine: July 1854-June 1855

I recently acquired two volumes of Peterson's bound in a peculiar fashion.  Instead of binding January-December of the same year together, these two bound July 1854-June 1855 and July 1855-June 1856.  I found this quite interesting, as all of my other bound volumes have contained the same calendar year within.  Oh well!  Peterson's listed the table of contents for previous volumes every half-year, so I suppose the woman who owned these didn't want to wait until January to start collecting!  Anyway, here are some of my favorite images from the volume of July 1854-June 1855.  Feel free to share, but please cite my blog.  And enjoy!