Monday, November 11, 2013

The Lydia Fast Bonnet Workshop

Whew!  What a whirlwind!  I had such a great time at the workshop and learned more than I could have expected to learn about millinery.  It's not so scary now!  I'm very pleased with how my bonnet turned out and surprised that I finished it this quickly.  Here's how it all went down...

First, I drove three hours to Ft. Meigs, where the workshop is held each year.  I had a bit of time to kill so I hung around the historical district.  Then we set up and went to dinner and to pick up some supplies, back to the classroom just in time to start work.  I chose to do the Pip, a style with a short crown and a curled brim.


This was one of the more difficult options, but I decided that I'd get my money's worth and do it anyway.  I chose a very pretty pink silk for the brim lining and a yellow for the crown.  This was my inspiration piece:

Ackermann's Repository 1814

Anyway, we received pre-cut pieces of buckram and mulling and a few other supplies.  We started by assembling the crown of our bonnets.


I half-attached my brim before we decided that it was time to turn it in for the night.  My friend Julie graciously let me stay at her house, so we went back there and stayed up a bit longer talking :)

Once we got back to the classroom the next morning, we started back to work.  I finished attaching my brim.  Since I chose the Pip, I had to steam-form my brim in order to give it that cute curled look. 

Here it is before steaming...

And after!

Once I finished this, it was time to take a little break and head to a great store called the Ribbonry in Perrysburg, Ohio.  It was intense!  Some of the ribbons were more per yard than a lot of my dress lengths of fabric!



As soon as we walked in I found the perfect plaid ribbon for Julie and helped my new friend Alyssa find a ribbon for her poke.  I promised myself I wouldn't buy anything but I laid eyes on the most perfect ribbon for my bonnet, and knew I had to get it.  Alyssa was so thankful for my help in picking her ribbon that she bought the ribbon for me!  It was incredibly generous of her and I am still floored.  So, you all should go to her website and buy her books, as she is a Regency author!


It looked perfect with my colors!

Once we were finished with the Ribbonry, we returned to the classroom and put our noses back to the grindstone.  Finally it was time to touch fashion fabric!  I first attached the crown tip, followed shortly by the brim fabric.



I then attached the brim lining--in my pretty pink silk!


I only got halfway through attaching the lining before my back started hurting and we decided to call it a night.  We went back to the house and had some laughs, and I slept like a rock that night.

Bright and early Sunday morning, we started again.  I finished attaching one edge of the brim lining and then attached the inside edge.


Next up was covering the crown.  I could taste the finish line! Thankfully, I was able to attach the crown before the end of the workshop.  Yay!




After I finished attaching the crown piece, I packed up and headed for home.  Today, I was able to put in the lining and attach the ribbon, and I'm very happy with how it turned out!  I might add a feather or some flowers, but here it is in its present state.




I struggled with the bow, but I really like how it turned out.  I'm planning on wearing this to the Jane Austen Festival next year, but hopefully some event will arise that I can wear it to, as well!  The workshop, all in all, was very fun and informative, and I will definitely be going again.  And now I can honestly say that millinery doesn't scare me anymore!

Friday, November 1, 2013

Delicious Bonnets of the Early 19th Century

As an early Christmas present, next weekend I'll be going to Lydia Fast's Bonnet Workshop!  In preparation I've been collecting digital images of the gorgeous bonnets of the Regency era.  Here are only a few of the images I found!  If you would like to get an idea of what I'll be doing at the workshop, please read my friend Julia's recap of the 2012 workshop.  Enough talking, now pretties!

The one in the top right is one of my favorites.

Ackermann's Repository 1809--I love the one in the bottom right!

I'm planning on making the one in the bottom right corner, because I love the gorgeous simplicity!

All of these bonnets are gorgeous, but especially the one in the bottom left.

Ackermann's Repository 1815--I am completely envious of this woman's entire outfit, but especially her bonnet!

And finally, this is the bonnet I'll be reproducing in the workshop!  It will have a light pink brim lining and a yellow crown, with dark pink flowers and feathers.  This is from Ackermann's Repository 1814.

Tuesday, October 22, 2013

Fashions from Peterson's Magazine: July 1854-June 1855

I recently acquired two volumes of Peterson's bound in a peculiar fashion.  Instead of binding January-December of the same year together, these two bound July 1854-June 1855 and July 1855-June 1856.  I found this quite interesting, as all of my other bound volumes have contained the same calendar year within.  Oh well!  Peterson's listed the table of contents for previous volumes every half-year, so I suppose the woman who owned these didn't want to wait until January to start collecting!  Anyway, here are some of my favorite images from the volume of July 1854-June 1855.  Feel free to share, but please cite my blog.  And enjoy!













Thursday, October 17, 2013

A Lovely Accessory

I recently completed a knitting apron for my dear friend Deborah as part of an exchange.  In return, she knitted me a lovely pair of knitted under sleeves that were delivered to me via the post office at BGA Gettysburg... yes.  That was quite a while ago, but I have finally gotten around to finishing her apron!  Here it is in all its glory... on my dorm room floor.


The body of the apron is 100% silk taffeta with rayon velvet trim.  The taffeta was purchased from an Ebay vendor and the trim is from Needle and Thread in Gettysburg.  It is based off of an original in a private collection, which the owner graciously shared with me in order to make it for Deborah.  All of the trim is applied by hand, as are the pockets.  The only machine stitching is in the waistband.  I will be adding a buttonhole to the waistband and Deborah will be supplying a button.  All in all, I'm very happy with how it turned out!  It will look very lovely for her to knit in.

Here are some close-ups of the apron in the construction progress:


The initial photo of the fabric and the trim in natural light.  After some consideration, Deborah and I decided that plum trim would suit this reddish-orange very nicely.


A close-up of the hand-applied trim


And a close-up of my delicate stitches, of which I am very proud.

Sunday, October 13, 2013

Recent Acquisitions: CDVs

Recently, I've been collecting some original images to add to my collection.  Here are the CDVs that I have picked up.  Soon I will get around to posting the colored plates from the editions of Peterson's and Godey's I've acquired.  But, for now, some lovely CDVs.  All of these are from the UK, and if anyone would like to see the back of one of the images, please let me know in the comments.  Feel free to pin and share, but please cite my blog.  Thank you!

I love this woman's bonnet and her leather gloves!

The skirt trim on this is gorgeous, and the baby is pretty adorable too :)

Lovely sleeves!

I might tentatively date this to pre-1860's based on the tiered skirt, but I could be wrong.  What a nice coat on the gentleman, though!

One of the two tinted CDVs in my collection now.  I love that the cravat is tinted blue; Sam liked it very much!

I love her sleeves.

I might date this to post-war due to the hairstyle.  How interesting for her belt buckle to be off-center, as well...

The second tinted CDV in my collection.  I can't express how much I adore this image.

Check out her skirt--you can count her hoop rungs!  Also, the last rung is very far off the ground.  How interesting!

A-freaking-mazing skirt ruffles.  To die for!

Another sweet face.

Moire--yum!

This picture eerily looks like my mother when she was younger...

I love the rosettes down the front of this gown.

Gorgeous trim!  I would probably date this as post-war due to the shape of the crinoline and the style of hair.

And finally, something near and dear to my heart--reading.  What a sweet image.

Wednesday, October 9, 2013

The Best Laid Plans...

So, I'm sure everyone has been waiting for a Chickamauga recap.  I'm sorry to say that there won't be one, because, well, Sam and I never made it to Chickamauga.  It turned out that, with Sam's school schedule and the layout of the event site, we wouldn't have made it in time.  The best case scenario would have been us sleeping in our car one night (after driving 8 hours) and sleeping in a borrowed tent the next night.  It simply wasn't possible.

However, we did get the opportunity to go to a nice little event in Louisville: 100 Years on the Ohio.  It was a timeline event reaching from 1765-1865, so I got to see some friends I normally see at 1812 events.  There was a lovely little dance Saturday evening and a vintage baseball game Sunday afternoon.  The grounds were lovely to wander around.  In retrospect, it was better for 100 Years to be Sam's first event than Chickamauga would have been.  While going down to Georgia would have been fun, it was nice to have a relaxing event to go to and a real bed to sleep in at night.

Sam loved it, at least from what I heard him say.  He had a great time dressing out and making new friends, and even suggested we make the event an annual thing.  All in all, we had a very lovely time.  Enough for talking, now pictures!


Waiting for the sun to set before the dance


I didn't realize until this event that my red dress really needs to be let down.  No worries though, it has a bit of a hem in it.  I also need to take Sam's pants in.


I used my antique paisley shawl for the first time at this event.  It was a very nice accessory, as the weather was a bit nippy.


A candid taken by my new friend Toni during the vintage baseball game--featuring delicious homemade ice cream!


I think we make a handsome couple, if I do say so myself.  Sam's clothes weren't perfect, but at least I know for next time what to do differently.  However, I think he looked pretty good for his first event.

Wednesday, September 4, 2013

Super Belated Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #16: Separates

Because I like to procrastinate, I of course waited long after the 16th HSF challenge was due to finally finish my project (hey--at least it's finished!)  In preparing for the 150th Anniversary of the Battle of Chickamauga, which my beau happens to be attending with me (It's his first event!), I had a lot of men's sewing to do.  In order to send in his application for the civilian town at the event, well, he needed to be wearing clothing.  So, I set to work.  Finally, I got him looking presentable this weekend.  I'll be posting the rest of his clothing as it gets finished, but first, drumroll please...



His work shirt!  In the 1860's, working class men often wore a wool or linen work shirt or overshirt (like a smock) in order to protect their clothing from the items they were working with.  Since Samuel is portraying a farmhand, this was one of his most necessary items.  Beneath he is wearing suspenders and a white shirt, with a pair of gray wool trousers.  I plan on adding a white collar and cuffs, as I took inspiration from this piece:



Now for the particulars!

The Challenge: #16: Separates

Fabric: Brown medium-weight 100% linen

Pattern: Laughing Moon #107

Year: 1860-1865

Notions: Six china buttons, poly Gutermann thread, (1) Cutting assistant and general cheerleader

How historically accurate is it?: I would say 85%.  Necessary parts are done by hand (buttonholes, cuffs, neckband, etc.)  Once I add the collar and cuffs it will be even better.

Hours to complete: 7 so far, with about 1-2 to go.

First worn: This past weekend for a picture, but its first event will be Chickamauga.

Total cost: $25, all things considered.